Sizzling food in this Deul

Kamal Baruah

(The writer can be reached at kamalbaruah@yahoo.com)

I was at first taken aback, not quite sure why affluent people are concerned about counting calories from recommended intake to stay healthy. But the other day I saw food lovers thronged the narrow streets of a town while celebrating it's Deul (Holi). People gathered around the xatra on the eve of the festival of colour where the surrounding area resonates with Holi songs and the sounds of Cymbals. Everyone talks about the evergreen deity of Kaliya Gosain (the dark Lord) for his enigmatic charisma and divine love of Radha-Krishna from ancient mythology.

The historic Kirtan Nagari is one of the major visitor attractions. So I was instantly agreed when Dr PK Deka called me into his native place. But three is another reason why I visited again in the Doul Mahotsav. It's the street food of Barpeta. Their mindful eating has little to do with carbohydrates, fat or protein. Forget about calories, just eat healthy and right. No matter what the health experts' say effective dieting; street foods are with them all the way.

We went by-pass NH-31 avoiding the long route in the morning to catch up more avenues within a daylong trip. Rural road conditions are not new things to learn and after an hour of driving on the rough road, we decided for a break at Hajo. A huge soft and puffed recipe from a serving dish of Kahorkahi (bell metal plate) at Chandrama had given us an appetite. I tasted a small bite out of the slice of hot paratha and grabbed it all while there was still time for lunch. The ride was comfortable, though there was caution through chaotic road and my friend made things easier for he knew about the localities we came across.

The small town looked festive with Gulopia (Rose) colour showering all around. Soon we enquired about Kirtan Ghar, the passerby cyclist did so willingly. The traffic was snarled up on the congested street in both directions for the last furlong, yet there was no honking and residents don't mind parking vehicles in front of their gate. The depleted structure of Zironi Chara (resting place) reflected serious attention from the Archaeological Survey of India. We entered through the very huge main entrance Nahati Batchara (western entry).

The aroma of wooden sticks Agarbatti incensed in the air. Tens of thousands of devotees gathered outside the main prayer hall. We occupied a floor of a verandah near Hari Jaan (a cannel) as there was no arrangement made for visitors and got a little upset for not planning to give its old heritage of early 16th-century structure and surroundings a complete facelift. It's a wonder that such things are easily noticed. I was uncertain how the Georgian Ambassador carries vivid memories of that day while visiting this year.

But I love to see the varieties of food from sweet to salty, sour and bitter at open stands. One just can't miss Aloo Vaja (mashed Potato fry) and Ranga Dima (red egg). My tongue clumped to taste for those colourful recipes sizzling in the pan. They are ethnic street foods of Barpeta. My friend bought a few packets of Tepa Nimki (Namkeen), Sweet of Bahari and Chanar Kharma (Sandesh from cheese curds) from a traditional stall of the town. Meanwhile, a muffed announcement was heard over the loudspeaker for the reception. The xatra has its own guest house and dormitories free of cost for pilgrimage but we had another idea.

Jadu and his family were eagerly waiting for Akhaj (a meal) together with us. The friendly and generous lunch was simply scrumptious. Masortenga (sour fish), Mati mahordali (Urad dal), Aloo pitika (meshed potato) etc., and what's more. The hosts showed us with great care. With the hospitality so characteristic, it offered tea and snacks every time we spent visiting relatives; such things are rare in urban life. Their simplicity, customs and strong community feeling have inspired us to visit again.

Then, with light fading, the lines of cars rushed home on the national highway. The smooth road was long with many winding turns but the day-long tour reminded us that

we ate right, aren't we? Forget about its nutrias benefits. In Barpeta, street foods are considered a great delicacy and the event was deliciously memorable. What does Ranga Dima taste like? It's surely as much a part of the Holi celebration. Food lovers don't get intimidated about hygiene. There is no formal attire but the air of the tiny town is casual and comes alive during Deul with stalls where locales sell foods that managed to win a lot of hearts. Let's wait and see for another mouthful eats next time.