Protecting Assam’s Traditional Handloom Industry: Significance of Enforcing Ban on Power Loom Replicas

The Assam government’s decision to enforce the ban on the sale of power loom-made gamosas, mekhela chadors, and aronai is a commendable step toward safeguarding the interests of traditional handloom weavers. This move aims to ensure that the state’s rich weaving heritage continues to thrive despite the growing influx of cheaper machine-made replicas. Moreover, by encouraging more weavers to register their products under the Handloom Mark scheme, the government is providing a stronger defense against imitation products that threaten the livelihoods of thousands of weavers across the state.

Handloom Mark: A Seal of Authenticity

The Handloom Mark is a certification that guarantees that a product is genuinely handwoven in India. Introduced in 2006, this initiative helps buyers distinguish authentic handwoven fabrics from machine-made substitutes. By facilitating the registration of more weavers under this scheme, Assam can ensure that handloom products remain competitive in the market while protecting weavers from exploitation.

Unscrupulous traders often pass off power loom-made gamosas, mekhela chadors, and aronai as handwoven items, deceiving buyers and depriving traditional artisans of their rightful market share. These machine-made fabrics are produced at a fraction of the cost, undercutting handloom products and making weaving an unprofitable occupation for many artisans. The Handloom Mark scheme is a crucial tool in countering this unfair competition.

The Importance of Registration for Weavers

The Handloom Mark scheme is open to:

• Individual weavers

• Master weavers

• Primary handloom weaver cooperative societies

• Self-help groups

• Consortiums

• Producer companies

• Joint liability groups

• Handloom weavers’ groups and federations

For a state like Assam, which has the highest number of handlooms and weavers in the country, ensuring widespread registration is crucial. However, the declining number of traditional weavers is alarming. Many artisans are leaving the profession due to the non-remunerative nature of the work, worsened by the market saturation of power loom products. By increasing awareness about Handloom Mark certification, more weavers can be encouraged to register, ensuring their products receive due recognition and demand.

How the Handloom Mark Works

To help buyers easily distinguish genuine handloom products from power loom imitations, labels with the Handloom Mark logo are affixed to registered products. These labels are supplied to registered weavers and producer groups on a quarterly basis, ensuring that only authentic handwoven textiles carry this mark. The process of issuing the mark involves onsite verification, which serves as a safeguard against misuse.

Additionally, technological advancements have simplified the verification process. The Ministry of Textiles’ mobile app for weaver registration has made it easier for artisans to enroll in the scheme. A separate customer app allows buyers to check the authenticity of products through a unique and dynamic QR code affixed to each handloom product. Spreading awareness about these digital tools is crucial to boosting consumer confidence in handloom products and increasing demand.

Challenges in the Registration Process

Despite the benefits of the Handloom Mark, several challenges persist in Assam’s registration process:

1. Staff Shortage for Onsite Verification
   With over 11 lakh weavers in the state, conducting onsite verification with limited staff is a significant hurdle. However, this step is crucial to preventing fraudulent use of the Handloom Mark.

2. Possible Solutions for Faster Verification

   • Engaging weavers' societies and the Handloom and Textiles Department for verification.

   • Involving Gram Sabhas or local governing bodies in the verification process.

   • Conducting geo-tagging and onsite verification during handloom census operations to streamline registration.

Without addressing these challenges, many weavers may be left out of the scheme, missing the benefits of certification and market protection.

Linking the Handloom Mark with GI Tagging

The gamosa is set to receive a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which will provide it with additional legal protection. However, without adequate awareness and facilitation for weavers to use the GI logo, the problem of power loom replicas will persist. The government must ensure that traditional weavers are educated about how to use both the Handloom Mark and GI tag to enhance the marketability of their products.

Women Weavers: Economic Empowerment through Protection

Women constitute around 99% of Assam’s weavers, making handloom protection a gender-inclusive economic policy. Official data indicates:

• 49% of Assam’s weavers are engaged in full-time weaving.

• For 35% of households, at least 60% of their income comes from handloom-related activities.

Protecting handloom products from power loom competition directly contributes to improving household incomes, fostering economic stability for thousands of families dependent on weaving.

The Need for Product Diversification and Market Expansion

While the government provides various forms of assistance, such as the supply of yarn and looms, ensuring an assured market for handwoven products is equally critical. Traditional weavers need to be encouraged to diversify their products beyond gamosas and mekhela chadors to expand their market reach.

Furthermore, innovative marketing strategies should be introduced:

• Leveraging e-commerce platforms to sell handloom products directly.

• Promoting export opportunities for Assamese handloom textiles.

• Organizing handloom fairs and exhibitions to create greater market exposure.

Strengthening the Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985

The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985, was enacted to protect handloom weavers from the impact of power loom competition. Under this law, 22 textile products, including gamosa and mekhela chador, are reserved for handloom production. However, power loom production of these textiles continues illegally, highlighting the inefficiencies in enforcement.

The occasional seizure of prohibited power loom products has done little to curb their proliferation. A more structural and consistent enforcement strategy is necessary. The rising demand for cheaper products due to the declining purchasing power of customers is a major factor in the continued presence of power loom replicas. Therefore, creating a consumer-driven demand for genuine handloom products through awareness campaigns is essential.

Preserving Assam’s Cultural Identity through Handloom Protection

Assam’s weaving heritage is deeply intertwined with its cultural identity. Power loom products not only threaten weavers’ livelihoods but also dilute the cultural significance of handwoven textiles. For many indigenous communities, textiles like gamosas and mekhela chadors carry deep traditional value.

By strictly enforcing the ban on power loom replicas and building a strong ecosystem for handloom products, the government can ensure the preservation of Assamese heritage while empowering its weavers.

The Assam government’s initiative to ban power loom replicas and promote the Handloom Mark scheme is a progressive step in safeguarding the interests of traditional weavers. Addressing challenges in the registration process, enhancing enforcement of existing laws, and spreading consumer awareness will be key to making handloom weaving a sustainable and profitable occupation. By doing so, Assam can protect not just an industry but a centuries-old tradition that forms the fabric of its cultural and economic identity.

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