The weakening hands-on loom

Pratim Kalita

(The writer can be reached at pratimk37@gmail.com)

In Indian culture and tradition, weaving or handloom occupies a highly respectable position right from civilization. It has an inextricable relation with its culture and social life. The Rig Veda, the Puranas have also mentioned their practices. In Assam, this industry has a special succession. Assamese silk weavers have captured world interest with their traditionally equipped weaving techniques and their beauteousness value that demonstrates the richness and multiplicity of Assamese culture. The Vrindabani Vastra, woven by Assamese weavers under the guidance of Mahapurux Srimanta Sankardev, depicts the childhood days of Lord Krishna, is the finest example of weaving excellence. More than this, one can often hear the weaving culture in Bihu songs or sayings in Assam.

Doubtlessly, the role played by the handloom industry to shape the socio-economy structure of this state is enormous. Besides carrying the cultural heritage, it empowers the women and upgrades the village economy too. The fourth All India Handloom Census (2019-20) states that Assam has the highest concentration of handloom weavers in India. The mentioned census also says that among all total 72.3% are female and 88.7% are from rural areas. Notably, a large number of weavers or handloom artisans are found in Sualkuchi, (Kamrup district), the Manchester of Assam. Some other major handloom villages of Assam are Kokoya (Nalbari), Kachuwa (Nagaon) etc. GI (Geographical Indication) tag holder 'muga', the golden silk, is produced only in Assam. Along with the products of muga silk, the white pat silk and eri or endi have a special status in the market. Some other artistic handloom products of Assam are— Miri-Jim (Gadu), woven by the laborious Mishing women; Dokhona, Aronai, Hichima of the Bodo community; Buksil, Pasra, Pajal of the Ravas etc. People get enthralled by seeing these distinctively designed handloom products. That is why some scholars have opined that weaving technology is a science and arts of fabrics and fibres. The justifiable truth is that Assamese weavers are very dexterous in this science. Thus, this handloom sector offers great employment opportunities for the people of Assam.

Despite having such prodigious opportunity and rich history, sometimes question arises;

has the beauty of this tradition been decreased among the people? Simply this question is not avoidable. The young generation is not at all interested in this sector. Among the other various reasons, the pathetic economic condition of the household handloom weavers is the major one. The fourth handloom census also reveals the reality, 67.1% (Rural = 68.5%, Urban = 57%) of the total weavers' monthly income is less than Rs 5000. People engaged in this industry are also facing problems of competing against the cheaper power loom products. Traditional handloom weavers do not get their deserving exposure to rule the market. To do the same, handloom weavers should instigate a more professional outlook. The unorganized market system that stands as a hurdle should be upgraded. Priority should be given to e-marketing too. But some hidden agendas like technological knowledge of social media platforms, minimum educational qualifications also obstruct them. This is to be mentioned that 23% of the total weavers have never attended schools and 22.4% (rural) have somehow been able to touch the verandah of primary school in India. So, they have to depend on others. Now it is very difficult for the Assamese women to carry on Mahatma Gandhi's belief that they weave their dreams on loom due to the high price of raw materials. More than that the shortage of labours, financial instability are some other common causes that often hinder the growth of weavers.

Government's schemes like National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP), North Eastern Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS), Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS) etc., should reach smoothly the weavers to minimize such obstacles. The expansion of this industry is very necessary to grab the international market. More and more villages should be included methodically in this industry. Increasing the number of skilled labourers will also help in this sector. As per record, the Directorate of Handloom and Textile, Government of Assam, is running 102 Handloom Training Centres throughout the state. But how active in mood are there is an unanswerable question. The HRDC (Handloom Research and Designing Centre) also provides developed and modernized design as per the interest of the customers to this industry. But the lack of funds stands as a barrier in their work. The Directorate should increase organizing workshops, exhibitions or seminars on handloom and textile and with the same enthusiasm the sequel should be utilized pragmatically instead of keeping them in the pile of files.

Let us all join our hands to strengthen this industry. Let our handloom be always the pride of us. Observing the National Handloom Day on 7 August annually to aware people of the handloom industry and its significance to the socio-economic structure of the country is adorable. The urge of the Central Government to be vocal for handmade products and the decision was taken by the Cabinet, Government of Assam, to use only locally made handloom products for every government function will unquestionably be a process of saluting the commendable efforts of the handloom workers.