The Golden Treasure of India

Shilpika Rajguru

Muga Silk and Assam have been in existence since time immemorial. Though there are no definitive records or journals mentioning the origin of Muga Silk in Assam, it is generally believed that it was during the time of the Ahom Dynasty (1228 to 1828) that Muga Silk was woven into the socio-economic fabric of the state. Due to unhindered patronage of the Ahom kings, the Muga silk rearers and weavers came into prominence, became skilled and prospered.

Muga is one of the rarest silks in the world. Due to its golden nature, it has now come to be known as the Golden Silk of Assam, as it is found only in the state. These silkworms have been in existence since prehistoric times. The silkworms are very delicate and cannot withstand the minimum pollution levels, thus making them very rare. The silk fibre is a very strong organic natural fibre and is derived from semi-cultivated silkworms named Antheraea assamensis. One of the most significant properties of the fabric is its longevity, as it has been seen time and again to outlive the wearer, thus making it an heirloom piece for every owner.

The Ahom Dynasty and Muga

The Ahom Dynasty was established in Assam with the invasion of Tai-Ahoms in 1228 A.D. During the supremacy of the Ahom rulers, the silk industry of Assam and especially the Muga silk received encouragement from the royal dynasty, as it was perceived as the royal fabric. During the rule of the Ahoms, elaborate arrangements were made for keeping in the royal store sufficient quantities of muga silk clothes of different varieties for presentation to foreign courts and dignitaries. Master weavers, mostly women, were brought in from various parts of the state to weave the fabric and garments. Scarcity of looms gave way to the development of indigenous weavers in the state who used to weave exclusively for the royal family. A definitive development in the socio-economic structure through such initiatives further increased the rearing of silkworms and weavers in the state. The Ahom ruler’s encouragement and patronage of the Muga Silk industry paved the way for muga silk spinning and weaving to become a household indispensable profession in Assam.

The looms and weaving techniques

Despite much advancement in the loom’s technology, the most widely used looms for muga weaving are the throw shuttle looms and the lion looms, which constitute the traditional looms of Assam. Usage of improved mechanisms like dobby and jacquard can be found mostly in commercial centres and government-aided production centres and are not within the reach of the common weavers.

Motifs and designs

Motifs and designs are the most crucial part of the garment-making which immensely adds value. Traditional Assamese motifs include abstract figures of animals, birds, human figures, creepers, flowers, celestial phenomena, religious structures, etc. Additionally, symbolisms of ritual nature are depicted in their motifs and designs. Distinction of motifs can be easily seen in the garments for tribal and non-tribal designs. While tribal motifs are generally geometric in nature, plains have designs depicting nature and its elements. Kinkhap, symbolised by lions facing each other; gosbuta, the tree motif; the kolka, the paisley motif; japi-pepa, symbolising musical instruments; and the mishing motif, a mix of colours, are the main prevalent motifs used widely in the weaving of traditional garments in muga silk. Muga Silk: In the current socio-economic scenario, a silkworm which is endemic to Assam, muga silk worms are mainly reared outdoors. Sustainability of the silkworms hugely depends on the climatic conditions, which require temperatures to be within the range of 25°C to 27°C and humidity in the range of 75-85%. Any negative impact on the climatic conditions affects the life cycle of the silkworms. year muga silk has seen a gradual and steep incline in the demand of the fabric both domestically and internationally. In the current scenario the cost of muga yarn has risen to as much as Rs. Rs.21,000/- per kilo as compared to Rs. 800 during the nineties. Various new innovations in the weaving techniques, especially at Sualkuchi, which is also known as the “Manchester of the East”, increased the value of the garment thus made exponentially. A mugamekhela chador ranges from Rs. 35,000 to Rs. 150,000.

While the demand for muga is ever growing, Assam is faced with the paradox of not being able to ramp up the supply of raw materials to the desired effect. Various ecological issues, such as the establishment of tea plantations using pesticides near rearing lands, have adversely affected the muga silkworms. The release of volatile gases from industrial activities of oil refineries has also adversely contributed towards the depletion of silkworms.

The socio-economic conditions of the weavers have deteriorated with the passage of time as the rearers and weavers have changed occupation, which led to a change in their income generation. The domino effect of this can also be seen in the health and education of these communities. Emphasis on the introduction of new advanced machines for weaving and implementation of scientific technology for laying and producing disease-free laying (DFL) muga silkworm eggs, along with the upgradation of machineries for extraction of silk yarn, will eventually lead to increased muga yarn production. Such measures can attract the youths towards this dwindling community, thereby creating a suitable life for the communities who are related to muga culture.

During the Supremacy of the Ahom dynasty, the silk industry was greatly encouraged, and this is particularly true in the case of the muga silk industry. Ahom kings patronised muga-culture by favouring muga silk for royal robes. It was the prescribed attire of all the high officers of the Govt. The garments made of ‘muga’ and other garments embroidered with ‘muga’ were the prerogative for the noblemen. Distinction in wearing dresses and garments had been maintained between the high and the lower classes. Headgear or turban, ‘Kinkhwab’, wrapper called ‘Cheleng’ (muga gutidiacheleng) & ‘Khania’ (muga phularkhania), ‘Churia’ or ‘Dhoti’, female garments ‘Mekhela’, ‘Riha’, etc. Muga were used by the royal aristocratic or high-ranking families. Common people were allowed to wear garments made of cotton and coarse-variety silk. On some specific occasions and with due permission from the kings, they could also wear muga fabrics.

The fabrics made of the best quality muga silk, i.e., when muga silkworms are fed on Mejankari or Adakuri trees (called mejankari silk) and on Chapa or Champa trees (called chapapatiamuga silk), were exclusively worn by the royal families. F. Hamilton mentioned the Mejankari silk, which was reared in Assam proper on a tree that was cultivated, and said that it was generally considered as better quality and constituted the dress of the higher ranks. These ‘Mejankari’ and ‘Chapapatia’ silks were costlier than common muga silk fed on ‘Som’, ‘Sualu’ and ‘Dighlati’ trees. The practice of rearing silkworms on the ‘Mejankari’ & ‘Chapa’ trees is completely abandoned by the people due to the non-availability of feed plants and the high mortality rate of muga silkworms on these plants.

The Ahom kings also kept many costly muga sets in the royal storehouse for presenting them to distinguished visitors to the royal court. There were many looms under the supervision of the royal house, called royal or ‘Rajagharia looms, for producing special types of silk fabrics for the use of the members of the royal family. Expert female weavers drawn from various places of Assam proper operated such royal looms. Such weavers received grants of rent-free land and other favours in return for their services.

The Muga silk business is currently valued at Rs 200 crore, but it has the potential to become an industry which is 10 times the current size. The elegant, lustrous golden fabric is gaining international repute and attention very quickly. There is a lot of scope to develop the agri-sector-based craft industry by modernising the age-old traditional processes through transfer of technology at the grassroots level and also ensuring value chain connectivity to the last mile. It is imperative that muga fabric is also showcased on various relevant platforms to increase the popularity and textile and fashion designers may be invited to explore the fabric further. A positive approach along with the introduction of new age technology will cement the position of The Golden Silk in the world textile map and help race socio-economic progress of the muga rearing and weaving communities.

The article delves into Assam’s prestigious Muga silk industry, tracing its royal heritage from the Ahom Dynasty to modern times. It explores the unique golden fabric’s properties, production processes, and current challenges while highlighting its cultural significance and economic potential.

Nestled among the blue hills and green valleys lies the state of Assam – the gateway to Northeast India. Situated in the foothills of the Himalayas and on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra, Assam is also renowned for its wild silk production along with the quintessential tea gardens. Silk rearing and weaving date back centuries in Assam, making it an integral part of its culture. Almost every village in Assam is host to generations of silk-producing communities.