Dipak Kurmi
(The writer can be reached at dipakkurmiglpltd@gmail.com.)
Assam, the land of resplendent culture and rich traditions, has once again
etched its name in the annals of history as its legendary jewellery has been awarded the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This recognition not only reinforces the authenticity of Assam’s traditional jewellery but also serves as a tribute to the craftsmanship of local artisans who have preserved the art form for generations. The announcement was made by Assam’s Chief Minister, Himanta Biswa Sarma, who expressed immense pride and satisfaction in seeing the fruition of an initiative proposed in the state budget of 2018-19. This milestone is expected to elevate Assam’s cultural heritage to new heights, ensuring the protection of the unique identity of Assamese jewellery while safeguarding the interests of its artisans.
The Significance of the GI Tag
The GI tag is a mark of authentication that certifies a product’s unique characteristics, reputation, and quality, attributed to its geographical origin. It acts as a safeguard against unauthorized imitation and promotes economic prosperity by enhancing the market identity of the product. Assam’s traditional jewellery now joins an elite list of products that enjoy this protection, ensuring that only authentic Assamese jewellery can be marketed under its name.
Assamese jewellery is a revered aspect of the state’s cultural heritage, embodying centuries-old craftsmanship. The intricate designs, influenced by nature, musical instruments, and everyday objects, set these ornaments apart from conventional jewellery. The recognition of Assamese jewellery with a GI tag is a step towards its global promotion and wider commercial outreach, which will significantly benefit local artisans and craftsmen.
A Dream Realised:
The CM’s Vision
Chief Minister Himanta Biswa Sarma, in a heartfelt post on his social media platform X, reminisced about the vision he had set forth years ago. He recalled that during the 2018-19 budget session, the government had proposed to secure GI tags to protect and promote indigenous artisans. Now, with the GI tag officially conferred, this vision has transformed into reality. The CM expressed his joy, stating, “Assam’s jewellery – an inseparable part of our heritage – has received its own Geographical Indication (GI) tag. I distinctly remember that in the 2018-19 budget, we had proposed to secure a GI tag to protect our artisans. Happy to see these efforts have been realised.”
This accolade will have a far-reaching impact on Assam’s jewellery industry, ensuring its uniqueness remains intact and preventing mass-produced imitations from flooding the market. Furthermore, it will boost the local economy by driving higher demand for authentic Assamese ornaments.
Assamese Jewellery: A
Testament to Craftsmanship
The splendour of Assamese jewellery lies in its deep-rooted connection to the land’s cultural and natural aesthetics. Traditional Assamese jewellery is entirely handmade, crafted meticulously by skilled artisans who have inherited the expertise from their forefathers. The artistry reflects inspiration drawn from flora and fauna, with designs often resembling leaves, flowers, the crescent moon, and even musical instruments. Originally, Assamese ornaments were studded with precious stones such as rubies, moonstones, emeralds, and garnets. Locally, these were referred to as “Dalimiya Pathur”, as the red stones were compared to pomegranate seeds. The jewellery pieces are predominantly crafted from silver, which is then coated with a thin layer of gold, making them both affordable and easy to maintain. Gold, referred to as “Kesha Xoon” or raw gold, has traditionally been the primary metal used in Assamese jewellery, though silver and other metals have also been employed.
This exquisite jewellery-making tradition thrives in three major regions of Assam: Nagaon, Jorhat, and Barpeta. Interestingly, there exists a distinction between the jewellery styles of Upper Assam and Lower Assam. While the former predominantly features stone-studded designs, the latter focuses on intricate gold patterns with minimal or no stones.
The Signature Ornaments
of Assam
Assamese jewellery is renowned for its diverse range of ornaments, each possessing unique names and designs reflective of their origins. Some of the most distinguished pieces include:
Jon Biri: A crescent-shaped pendant symbolising the half-moon
Lokaparo: A striking design featuring two pigeons placed back to back.
Jethi Poti: A V-shaped ornament resembling a lizard’s tail, adorned with small medallions and a central pendant.
Dhol Biri: A drum-shaped ornament inspired by traditional Assamese musical instruments.
The array of Assamese jewellery extends to earrings, necklaces, and rings, each carrying deep cultural significance:
Earrings: Lokaparo, Keru, Thuriya, Jangphai, Long Keru, Sona, and Makori.
Necklaces: Golpata, Satsori, Joon Biri, Bena, Gejera, Dhol Biri, Doog Doogi, Biri Moni, Mukuta Moni, Poalmoni, Silikha Moni, and Magardana.
Rings: Senpata, Horinsakua, Jethinejia, and Bakharpata.
Each of these pieces is not just an ornament but a symbol of Assamese culture, heritage, and pride. The intricate craftsmanship and distinctive designs make Assamese jewellery a treasured possession for generations.
A Flourishing Future for
Assamese Artisans
The GI tag is more than just a recognition; it is a gateway to prosperity for Assam’s artisans and craftsmen. By securing this certification, Assamese jewellery is now positioned to gain national and international recognition, opening avenues for global markets. This will not only generate employment opportunities but also encourage the younger generation to take up traditional jewellery-making as a viable profession. Apart from Assamese jewellery, 19 other traditional crafts of Assam have also been conferred with the GI tag in April 2024. These include Bihu Dhol, Jaapi, and several handicraft products from the Bodo community, such as the Sarthebari Metal Craft, Assam Pani Mateka Craft, Assam Asharikandi Terracotta Craft, and Assam Mising Handloom Products. The conferment of these GI tags underscores Assam’s commitment to preserving and promoting its indigenous heritage.
A Legacy Preserved
This historic achievement coincides with the birth anniversary of Bodofa Upendra Nath Brahma, a revered leader of the Bodo community. The recognition of 13 traditional Bodo crafts on this occasion is seen as a tribute to his efforts in preserving tribal heritage. CM Sarma highlighted that these GI tags would go a long way in promoting and conserving Assam’s traditional handicrafts, benefiting nearly a lakh people directly engaged in these crafts. The Geographical Indication system in India came into effect on September 15, 2003, with Darjeeling Tea being the first Indian product to receive the GI tag. With Assamese jewellery now joining this esteemed league, Assam’s cultural legacy is poised for an era of renewed recognition and commercial success.
The conferment of the GI tag on Assamese jewellery marks a defining moment in Assam’s cultural and economic landscape. By safeguarding the authenticity of traditional jewellery, this recognition empowers artisans, strengthens the local economy, and promotes Assam’s heritage on a global platform. As Assam’s golden legacy continues to shine, the GI tag serves as a beacon of hope and pride for generations to come. This milestone ensures that Assamese jewellery remains not just an artefact of the past but a thriving emblem of heritage and craftsmanship in the future.