Editorial

Authenticity tag on Gamosa

The Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Gamosa of Assam bears special significance not just for lakhs of handloom weavers who have kept preserved this unique handicraft item for generations

Sentinel Digital Desk

The Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Gamosa of Assam bears special significance not just for lakhs of handloom weavers who have kept preserved this unique handicraft item for generations but also for the preservation of Assamese identity and culture. Mere GI registration of Gamosa woven on handlooms in the state is not going to protect the interest of local artisans if awareness is not built on the use of the GI logo to distinguish a genuine Assamese Gamosa from Gamosas made on power looms. Lessons need to be learnt from the failure to build awareness on the GI tag for Assam's unique golden thread Muga which allowed unscrupulous traders to flood the market with adulterated Muga products and pass cheaper Tasar silk products as Muga. Cheaper quality Gamosas produced on power looms in mills outside the state have been adversely affecting the commercial interests of handloom weavers in the state who weave genuine Assamese Gamosa. The Gamosas produced on power looms are low-priced due to the lower cost of production and cheaper quality raw materials and as a result, comparatively higher-priced hand-woven Gamosas lose out in the competitive markets. Although there are legal shields under which the sale of power loom Gamosas is prohibited, due to poor enforcement these find their way to the markets. Apart from the price factors, often the inability of consumers to distinguish a genuine Gamosa made on a handloom from one made on a power loom allows traders to push cheaper quality Gamosas from outside the state into the markets. Therefore, parallel to the awareness drive among handloom weavers and entrepreneurs in the state on the use of the GI logo on Gamosa, massive awareness needs to be built among all sections of society not to buy a Gamosa without a GI logo. This will also require the State government, its Handloom and Textile Department and various agencies to ensure that every single handloom weaver is empowered to use the GI logo so that a genuine hand-woven Gamosa weaver is not deprived due to lack of awareness or access to the logo. While a section of genuine Muga weavers uses the GI logo on their products, the majority of buyers, due to lack of awareness of the GI tag, do not ask the sellers if those products have the GI logo for Muga or not. This has allowed some traders to pass on Golden coloured Tasar silk products as Muga products to deceive such buyers. Flower motifs on traditional Assamese Gamosa have special meaning and significance but manufacturing of Gamosa on power looms without knowledge of the cultural practices related to these handcraft items has led to a distortion of the cultural significance of these motifs. Widespread use of the GI logo by local artisans on Gamosas woven by them will help prevent such cultural distortion so that traditional Gamosa is preserved for all time. Apart from household use for a different purpose, Gamosa is widely used in every public sphere from honouring or welcoming a special guest in a public event- from literary, religious, cultural, educational to political- organised by government departments, cultural and literary bodies, Bihu committees, non-government organisations, student and youth bodies, women's bodies, panchayats or religious bodies. Organisers of such events can play a crucial role in building awareness of GI logo handloom weavers of the state and insist on buying only Gamosa with a GI logo. According to the 4th All India Handloom Census (2019-20), Assam has 11.07 lakh weavers and 1.76 lakh allied workers engaged in the handloom sector. In the third national Handloom Census, the number of weavers in the state was over 14 lakhs with about 99% of them women. The decline in the number of weavers is an indication of power loom products affecting the commercial interest of traditional weavers making handloom production non-remunerative for a large number of them and forcing them to look for alternative livelihood options. Implementation of various schemes and programmes aimed at capacity building of local weavers, and easy marketing of their products through interventions like yarn banks, loom upgradation, and e-marketing can play a critical role in making handloom activities sustainable for lakhs of weavers' families. The essence of the Swanirbhar Nari Scheme of the Assam government under which traditional hand-woven products are to be procured directly from indigenous weavers needs to be spread among the general public so that they are also motivated to buy genuine hand-woven products, including Gamosa made by local weavers. Greater awareness of authenticity is also essential for effective enforcement of the prohibition on power loom Gamosas. The GI tag for Gamosa has rekindled hope for the protection of commercial interests of indigenous weavers in Assam, provided the awareness among producers and buyers on its use for establishing authenticity can be built. Along with the celebration of the recognition of Assamese Gamosa, a powerful campaign against the purchase and use of Gamosas made on power looms is also the need of the hour.