Editorial

Prioritising climate action, authenticity in Muga Mission

Mission Senehjori aims to boost Assam’s Muga silk economy, but climate resilience, higher cocoon production and GI-linked authentication are vital to affordability and trust.

Sentinel Digital Desk

Muga silk is Assam’s pride but this heritage silk becoming increasingly unaffordable for average buyers in the state paints a bleak picture of severe demand-supply mismatch. The Mission Senehjori launched recently seeks to create a premium, traceable and export-oriented Muga silk economy with an investment of about Rs. 400 crore over the next three years. The ambitious project includes a component of Rs. 136–151 crore to be funded by the Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region to create a “globally recognised luxury Muga silk ecosystem, enhance value realisation for producers and position Assam as a leading destination for silk-based cultural and experiential tourism.”  Key outcomes which the Mission seeks to achieve by 2028 include establishment of five modernised Muga reeling units and a Muga Spun Mill, creation of 30 Farmer Producer Organisations and over 1,180 Farmer Interest Groups, regeneration of 5,000 hectares of Som and Soalu host plants, authentication of over 80 percent of traded Muga silk through GI-linked systems, creation of digital traceability mechanisms for more than 8,000 households and expansion of Muga silk exports to over 2,000 kilograms annually. The distribution of Muga host plants to Muga farmers has already begun, signalling progress of the Mission Activities. Real challenge, however, continues to lie in dealing with the serious problem of rising temperature stress increasing the mortality of Muga silkworms. The warning issued by a large group of Indian scientists and ecologist about an approaching Super El Nino triggering extreme weather conditions like extreme heat, delayed monsoon calls for effective mitigation measures to protect Muga silkworms from such heat stress and take special measures to ensure survival of the host plants. Actual Muga silk production will increase only when the silkworms survive extreme weather condition and cocoon production is increased to cater to increased demand from reeling and weaving units. Strengthening awareness building among traditional Muga farmers under Mera Resham Mera Abhiman 2.0, which is aimed at creating awareness among farmers on scientific Muga silkworm rearing practice, improved host plant management, disease prevention is a laudable and timely initiative. The programme implemented under the aegis of the Central Silk Board (CSB) also builds awareness among Muga and Eri silk farmers about adoption of improved technologies for increasing survival of silkworm and cocoon production. It is also heartening to see CSB organising scientist-farmer interaction in Muga growing clusters on adoption of improved technologies. Frequent scientist-farmer interactions help strengthening field data collection for the scientists to improve research while traditional farmers get an opportunity to discuss the challenges faced by them and seek scientific solutions to address them. The CSB’s emphasis on utilisation of Muga silk waste  on commercial scale for augmenting farmers income needs a stronger policy push and market support. Making Assam the hub of luxury textile value chain by increasing production premium Muga silk under the Mission Senehjori is a visionary initiative to unlock the potential of the Golden silk in the global silk market. Yet, boosting Muga silk production is crucial to bridging the demand-supply gap for domestic buyers, especially the common Assamese buyers to preserve the cultural practice associate with Muga in true sense. Apart from boosting cocoon and yarn production, preventing adulteration of Muga silk is crucial for its long-term survival. Adulteration of Muga silk with golden coloured cheaper Chinese Tasar silk and passing the product as genuine Muga silk has led to alarming decline in customer’s confidence, while prices of pure Muga silk products due to shortfall in cocoon and yarn production has skyrocketed making it unaffordable for most middle and low-income households. Empowering the traditional weavers, traders and buyers to distinguish pure Muga silk from adulterated ones is essential to establish authenticity and restore customers’ confidence. If the problem remains unaddressed, even when arrival of authentic Muga silk products increase as an outcome of the Mission and prices drop, most customers may continue to doubt the authenticity. A pragmatic solution to the problem is undertaking a special and sustained campaign to increase the number of registered Authorised Users of Geographical Indication (GI) tag of Assam Muga Silk Logo among traditional Muga growers, yarn producers and traders across the state. Making the certification procedure simpler and accessible to rural farmers and traders is critical increasing the number of its authorised users. Establishing more testing centres closer to Muga hubs can incentivise traditional stakeholders to proactively register for using the logo. Using  authorised logo along the entire Muga value chain from farm gate to retail outlets will guarantee authenticity and traceability while safeguarding both buyers of premium products and common buyers from fraudulent and adulterated Muga products. Prioritising the promotion of Muga silk logo, together with scaling up the production of quality seeds, cocoons, raising improved host plants, and yarn, will be crucial for the Mission Senehjori  for achieving intended objectives and outcomes.