Shantanu Thakur
(thakur.santanu@gmail.com)
There’s a laxman-rekha to most things. There’s been enough concern over crossing limits in environmental depredations in the name of ‘development.’. Rather than individuals, it is agencies like the government and other collective international entities that need to be more aware of the danger of over-exploitation of natural resources. In an interview with the Indian Express, the Bhutan Prime Minister, Tshering Togbay, has recently said that in their tourism policy, they give more weight to high value and low volume, and although they need tourists, they also recognise the dangers of ‘overflow’ in the sector. It’s advisable to keep a tab on what goes on in the neighbourhood. Bhutan not only has ancient linkages of thought with India, but the nation is also a partner in mutual progress. Bhutan was perhaps also the first country to officially bring in the concept of Gross National Happiness. This brings into focus the very purpose of development, which is well-being. “The objective of economic growth must be larger than GDP numbers.” They have welcomed modernisation to the extent that it does not infringe on their culture and traditions or destroy their environment.
The vision of Viksit Bharat has sparked aspirational dreams in all state governments, which is a good thing. If the country has to grow, it must grow east, west, north, and south inclusively and not in sporadic islands of prosperity. The “Advantage Assam” initiative has once again brought the topic of Assam’s tourism “industry” into focus. The discussions on Assam’s “vast potential” in tourism, what needs to be done, and what has not been done will continue for some time. There is no shortage of advisors in the tourism sector—many experts and many opinions. Almost everyone has travelled at some point in life and has their perspective on tourism shaped by personal experiences. Hence, speaking about tourism is like treading a minefield of diverse, sometimes contradictory, opinions.
From the time humans learnt to travel, tourism has been an inseparable part of civilization. Whether driven by the need for food, concerns for security, trade demands, empire expansion, or the insatiable curiosity to explore the unknown, humankind has travelled across continents and oceans since the dawn of civilization. This has opened up newfound attractions. Tourism has always evolved alongside civilization’s progress. Over time, the way tourism resources are utilised has also changed.
Like in other parts of the world, tourism in India and Assam initially developed around pilgrimage sites, with religious preachers and travellers seeking knowledge of foreign civilisations. Ancient travellers like Fa-Hien and Ibn Battuta documented their observations. There was no government-funded tourism promotion in those days. Assam has long been known for its sacred sites, such as the shrine of Maa Kamakhya, attracting devotees from across India, sometimes travelling on foot for weeks.
During British rule, Shillong emerged as the key attraction of Assam tourism, along with Kaziranga’s one-horned rhino and the Kamakhya temple on Nilachal Hill. Tourism brochures and advertisements from that time prominently featured these places. Assam’s tourism was primarily centred around natural beauty, forests, and wildlife. Although places like Gorokhiya Dol, Mahamaya Dham, and Dhekiakhowa Naamghar were well-known pilgrimage sites, they remained largely limited to local visitors and did not attract much attention from tourism authorities. Even today, it is unclear how much focus these sites receive.
With Meghalaya’s statehood, Assam’s tourism landscape changed drastically. The loss of Shillong, the “dream city,” was like losing an arm. This marked a significant turning point, forcing Assam to reinvent its tourism identity. While this was a setback, it also served as a wake-up call to move beyond complacency. Until the 1980s, tourism in Assam was not viewed as a commercial industry. The focus was more on conservation rather than attracting visitors or recognising tourism as a lucrative industry. It was only in the late 1980s that the Assam Tourism Development Corporation (ATDC) was formed. Meanwhile, states like Goa, Jaipur, and Delhi had already established tourism as a major commercial industry. Delhi, Jaipur, and Goa had long been recognised as the “Golden Triangle” of Indian tourism. In contrast, Assam treated tourism more as a conservation initiative rather than a commercial venture.
What defines a tourism product? Answering this question is complicated. Traditionally, pilgrimage sites, rare wildlife, nature reserves, and scenic beauty were considered tourism assets. However, in today’s world, anything that offers a unique experience or thrill can become a successful tourist attraction. A city’s signature cuisine can be as attractive as a famous “kebab” or a well-prepared “grilled fish”—provided the presentation, service, hospitality, transportation, and infrastructure are in place. Local culture, music, dance, traditional attire, handicrafts, and even a haunted house can be valuable tourism assets. But to capitalise on these, there must be proper arrangements for tourists to enjoy them comfortably. The tourism department alone cannot achieve this. A successful tourism industry requires the combined efforts of both government and private sectors. Unfortunately, Assam has yet to develop a world-class infrastructure network connecting its major tourist destinations. When will we achieve this? Or have we become so indifferent that we no longer feel the urgency?
An expert from Sikkim once advised Assam’s tourism officials, “You have abundant resources. Instead of randomly highlighting different attractions at different times, focus on your primary tourism assets, refine them, and establish them firmly in the global tourism market. Simultaneously, continue researching and promoting new attractions.” How many paid heed? Even if a few officials understood and wanted to act, their tenure in the department was too short. A government-funded festival like the “Rongali Utsav” is yet to find a permanent venue and a fixed date. Hosting it at different locations each year makes it difficult to attract domestic and international tourists consistently. The tourism industry needs a well-planned calendar. Some may argue that changing locations helps in the early stages, but for how long should we remain in the “initial stage”? An experienced entrepreneur in the tourism sector once rued, “Assam is supposed to be the gateway to the Northeast. But now, neighbouring states are rapidly improving their air connectivity, while our road and rail links remain weak. If travellers can directly reach those states, won’t Assam’s role as a gateway diminish?”
The entire world is facing environmental crises—climate change, pollution, and ecological destruction. The unregulated commercial exploitation of tourism has severely damaged the Himalayas, the oceans, rivers, and cities. Popular destinations like Shillong, Shimla, Darjeeling, Jaipur, Goa, Kolkata, and Delhi are reeling under the weight of pollution and waste. Sustainable tourism is an urgent compulsion today. We must ask ourselves: how far should we go in maximising profits before we cause irreversible damage? If we fail to preserve our tourism resources, it will backfire. Increasing tourist numbers alone is not enough. Revenue generation cannot be the sole focus. If we try to extract all the “golden eggs” at once, we might end up killing the goose. Bhutan’s controlled approach to tourism offers valuable lessons. Assam’s tourism resources need time and sensitive planning to rejuvenate. During the COVID-19 lockdowns, when human activity was minimal, migratory birds returned in large numbers to Dighalipukhuri—remember that?
Key sites like Kamakhya, Kaziranga, Sivasagar’s royal relics, Gauripur, Haflong, Digboi’s historic oil industry, unique forests, and biodiversity-rich areas still need much better conservation efforts. Without daily awareness and vigilance, this is impossible. Majuli, the world’s largest river island, has immense tourism potential, but what long-term steps have been taken for its conservation and promotion are not quite publicly known. Despite having the Brahmaputra, a river with enormous tourism possibilities, a master plan on the possibilities of the mighty river is not in the public domain.
Assam’s tourism is a long, chequered story. There are plenty of speakers and advisors—but few doers. One is not an expert just because he or she worked in the tourism department for a few years. Instead, we should listen to those private entrepreneurs who have successfully put Assam’s tourism on the global map. Their insights matter. The positive atmosphere generated during Advantage Assam2 should be utilised to take things forward in the right direction. The show isn’t over yet.