STAFF REPORTER
GUWAHATI: The Directorate of Handloom and Textiles, Assam, has moved the Union Ministry of Textiles with the request to include two more traditional costumes of the State – Riha and pachara – in the list of reserved textile articles under the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act-1985. The production of articles reserved under this Act cannot be produced by any other means, other than handloom.
Riha is worn by a bride on the day of her marriage. It is wrapped around the body with one end fixed at the naval point under the mekhela and the other part is coiled around the upper part of the body covering the bosom from the right side to the left. This traditional costume made of mulberry silk and MUGA silk “of fine count” is a must for every bride. Pachara, on the other hand, is made of coarse hand/mill-spun Eri silk yarn and is used by males as body wrapper in winter.
Gamosa and some other textile articles of Assam are already in the reserved category under the Central Act. Such reservations help the traditional weavers get their remunerative prices as they have to face onslaughts from their power-loom (mechanized loom) counterparts that glut the market. When evil twins of gamosa are sold at cheaper prices, the traditional handloom weavers fail to get remunerative prices. This practice poses a threat to traditional weavers and their products. However, who cares? Under the nose of the authorities, evil twins of gamosa are sold in Assam, including Guwahati.