Traditional attire of Assam reflects the diversity unique to the northeastern state
The traditional attire of Assam stands out amid the colourful northeast India traditional wear. It reflects the state’s rich cultural heritage and lifestyle. The various tribes that live within Assam make the state and its clothing unique.
The Assamese men’s traditional attire and the women’s beautiful dresses are not only beautiful but also reflect the state's history, culture and, the craftsmanship of the artisans of Assam handlooms.
Let us now discuss about the various types of attires in detail.
1. Mekhela Sador :-
The Mekhela Sador is the most iconic and traditional attire of Assam’s women which flows with elegance. This elegant attire consists of two main pieces :
● Mekhela: A cylindrical skirt that is draped from the waist downwards. It is usually pleated and tucked in, creating a graceful silhouette.
● Chador: A long piece of cloth that is draped over the upper body. One end of the chador is tucked into the Mekhela and the rest is wrapped around the body, often with intricate folds.
The Mekhela Sador is often made from silk, particularly the famous Assam silk, which includes varieties like Muga, Eri, and Pat silk. The fabric is usually adorned with traditional motifs and designs, making each piece unique and exquisite. The Mekhela Sador is routine traditional Assam attire for festivals.
2. Dhoti and Gamosa
The Dhoti and Gamosa are the most popular pieces of Assamese men’s traditional attire. The Dhoti is a long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs, while the Gamosa is a rectangular piece of cloth with a red border and woven motifs. The Gamosa holds significant cultural value and is used in various ceremonies as a mark of respect. For men, the Dhoti and Gamusa are important parts of traditional Assam attire for festivals.
3. Tribal Attire
Assam has various tribes depending on the geographical location. Each of them has its own traditional attire. Let us look at some of the examples:
● Dimasa tribe traditional wear
For men: The men of the Dimasa tribe wear a Sgaopha or Phagri (Turban), which symbolises pride. They also wear a Rigdo (a small muffler) and Risha and Gainthao, which are pieces of cloth varying in length.
For women: Dimasa women wear a Rigu, a long piece of fabric similar to the Mekhela but with distinct patterns and designs.
● Bodo tribe traditional wear
For men: Bodo men traditionally wear a Gamsha which is similar to the Gamosa worn by the indigenous Assamese men, and a Dokhona, a piece of cloth wrapped around the waist. They comprise the basic Bodo tribe traditional wear for men.
For women: Bodo women wear a Dokhona as well, which is a long piece of cloth wrapped around the body, paired with a Jwmgra ( a type of blouse ) and an Aronai (a scarf).
● Mising tribe traditional wear
For men: Missing men traditionally wear a Gonro Ugon (a type of loincloth) and a Seleng (a piece of cloth wrapped around the waist). They also wear a Mibu Galuk, which is a sleeveless shirt made from handwoven fabric.
For women: Mising women wear a Yakan Age-Gasar, a wrap-around skirt, paired with a Gero, a blouse and a Galuk, a shawl draped over the shoulders.
● Karbi tribe traditional wear
For men: Karbi men wear a Choi Hongthor, a type of loincloth, and a Poho, a traditional shirt. They also wear a Jiso, a turban during special occasions.
For women: Karbi women wear a Pini, a wrap-around skirt and a Vamkok, a blouse. They also drape a Pekok, a shawl over the shoulders.
● Rabha tribe traditional wear
For men: Rabha Men wear a Kambang, a loincloth, and a Rikong, a traditional shirt. They also wear a Gamosa around their neck.
For women: Rabha women wear a Rikong, a wrap-around skirt, paired with a Kambang, a blouse, and a Gamosa draped over the shoulders.
● Tiwa tribe traditional wear
For men: Tiwa men wear a Suriya, a type of loincloth and a Phagri, a turban. They also wear a Jong, which is a traditional shirt.
For women: Tiwa women wear a Pini, a wrap-around skirt, and a Choi, which is basiaclly a blouse. They also drape a Jong, like a shawl over their shoulders.
In modern times, while the traditional attire of Assam remains poular, modern adaptations have also emerged. Many Assamese now wear the contemporary versions of the Mekhela Sador and Dhoti, which incorporates modern fabrics and designs while still retaining its traditional elements. These adaptations have made it possible for the attires to be more accessible to more people by making it suitable for everyday uses.
These clothes or traditional attire of Assam are great for clothing but this is not the only purpose it serves. They are beautiful and unique, with various possibilities and blends, making it more than just simple clothing. It reflects the state's cultural identity and each of them has a story of the region’s history.
They highlight the existence of the Assamese people and make them known to the outside world. These clothing pieces also highlight the awesome skills and craftsmanship of the artisans of Assam handlooms. Without these artisan's hardwork and creativity, these attires wouldn't have come to existence. Festivals like Bihu, which is the most significant festival of Assam, see people donning their beautiful mesmerizing attires, showcasing the vibrancy of traditional Assam attire for festivals. Many schools and colleges host various cultural functions and programs during festivals like Bihu where the people of each tribe get to perform while wearing their unique dresses and attires.
But, in today's world of intense influences of the Western lifestyle and culture, many of India's indigenous cultures are vanishing. More and more people are forgetting their own culture because of these influences. One of the reasons is also the illegal immigration of people from other countries. So, in order to protect our culture, one must appreciate the existence of it by raising awareness and continuing the cultural functions that highlights the existence of such culture.
With this, we can conclude that the traditional attire of Assam is a blend of tradition, culture and craftsmanship. From the elegant Mekhela Sador to the culturally significant Dhoti and Gamosa, each piece of clothing is special and a testament to the rich heritage of Assam. The traditional attires further add to the diversity making Assam a hotspot of uniqueness.
ALSO READ: The traditional attire of Assam stands out amid the colourful northeast India traditional wear
ALSO WATCH: